Travel To Kenya To Get To Know The Safari Land
Changes of Kenya
Kenya is in the eastern-most part of Africa. Kenya was a station for soldiers of fortune, intrepid visitors, hunters and settlers. It was a time before the freedom of Kenya. And so the Mau Mau fighters of the Kikuyu tribe were starting their war for freedom. They hid in the forests of Mount Kenya and the Aberdares. These woods had up-country inns that gave hunters with a place to respite for a few days. But with the risk of these freedom fighters, most of the north was empty.
Swamp to pomp
The main city of Kenya, Nairobi, lies 1,800 meters above sea level on the northern-most border of Athi Plains. Nairobi is East Africa’s most modern city and Kenya’s beating heart. It is a thrilling and crazy concrete jungle with free natural beauty unseen anywhere in the region. It is amazing that no lasting abode stood little more than a century ago where Nairobi does today. The place was just a swamp where the Maasai brought the cattle to drink. They knew the area as Enkare Nyirobi. They settled there because the nearby Athi Plains, where they lived, were full of insects, diseases, snakes and rodents.
Railways exposed Nairobi
The journey of newness of the main city of Kenya begins in the year 1899. It was the time when the railway branch line came. The site where Nairobi is today was a railway depot in the early 19th century for the Lunatic express. It was to link Mombasa to Kampala. Nairobi was a very squalid slum and tied to the world only by this railway line. But, the site was good for trade. And, the malaria-free climate appealed to the tourists. Thus it was the Mombasa railway that brought the first settlers to Nairobi. The railhead quickly blossomed Nairobi into a small town. And within just 8 years it became British East Africa’s capital in 1907.
Old school saving
Well before mass travel, safari, meaning trip, was linked with hunting trips taking much time and cash and meant going after the elephant, lion, rhino and leopard. The mores around hunting and saving were very not like these days. It was a time when even the word conservation did not exist the way they mean it today.
Journey of Roosevelt
The fame of the place brought the Wild West aka the people from the US to Nairobi. The Ex-US President Teddy Roosevelt did a safari in 1909 with his son, Kermit Roosevelt. Roosevelt’s trip helped nature and its science world. In the name of science, they killed more than 500 rare species of wild beasts for US history collections and wrote a book about it in the next year. Reading that book, we got a sense that he took a lot of pride telling the thrill of the hunt. Oddly, this massive safari was a saving mission and they called it the Smithsonian-Roosevelt African journey. It is uncertain whether the Smithsonian entity needed those 13 stuffed rhinos to further science. But, his safari no doubt helped improve knowledge about Kenya. Otherwise, its wildlife had remained a secret to many people up until then.
Europeans on wheels
Then came the Europeans who arrived into East Africa. They found Nairobi full of wildlife. The 1st ones were the elite of peers, princes, dukes and earls. But these sport hunters from Europe took a massive toll on those beasts. Within decades they killed many of these large mammals although they had coexisted with human beings for millions of years.
Get to know the safari land
Outskirts of Nairobi
Nairobi is not the only place in the country that has captured the fancy of people. On the fringes and far outside of Nairobi lie also lovely cities of East Africa. These places soon became the sought-out spots of the rich and famous and the royal clans of the world. They are Nyahururu, Nakuru, Nyeri, Nanyuki and the West of Tsavo. Also, Mount Kenya and the Aberdare mountains of Kenya deserve a special place in the story of Kenya for its supreme beauty and unmatched mysticism.
1) Nyahururu
Nyahururu is indeed a hidden gem. One of the last settler towns, it is a 240-km drive from Nairobi. The city is the highest town near the Equator in Laikipia county, sharing much of the traits of Nanyuki. Acres and acres of coffee and tea farms merge with the lush green forests in the vista of Nyahururu. Its mixture ranges from the Great rift valley to the snow-capped Mt. Kenya to the desert. And the city remains a famous market town in the region, which is well worth a browse. This tourist place sprawls out widely over the district, west of the stadium. Ever since its start in 1929, the town is the frontier town for routes to the desert and Lake Turkana. The town is less cut off now than before after the road to Nyeri was done. The most used ways to reach Nyahururu is from Nyeri, Nakuru, Nanyuki, Naivasha or Maralal. As one marvels at the wonders of the aura, it is quite natural to feel dazed. But the travel trade has not given it the credit that it truly deserves. Perhaps, that is why it is 1 of the places in Kenya that is in perfect accord with nature. On 2nd thoughts, let it remain the way it is – chaste and untouched.Â
Thomsons falls
Around 2km outside the town lays the Nyahururu-Nyeri highway. Along this highway, at the very edge of Laikipia and Aberdare ranges is the lovely Ewaso Narok river. On this river on patches of local forest on the open plain lands lies the world-famous Thomsons Falls with plenty of coniferous farm. It is 1 of the most famous touristy sites of Kenya. The cascades of the Thomsons falls plunges a 74m down the cliff on the Ewaso Narok river creating a mist that feeds the thick forest below. A Scottish geologist named Joseph Thomson when he walked from Mombasa all the way to Lake Victoria found it in 1883. The old settlers as well as many other people nicknamed it T Falls.Â
Nature trail
The area around Thomsons Falls fills with such vibes as to allow anybody a unique experience. It is unlike any other place in Kenya. The constant sound of the falls, chirping of the birds and the monkeys, and the dazing view would make anyone feel closer to nature than at any other time and place. The nature trail at Thomsons falls through the gorge is a haven for the baboons, the risky colobus monkeys and small beasts. Also, one of the highest hippo pools of Kenya, which attracts people, is at the upstream of Thomsons falls. This hippo pool at the equator never ceases to amaze visitors. You can view the Thomsons falls either from above or along the trail that runs down to the bottom of the ravine. They sell maps in curio shops around the Thomsons falls that gives you guidance on many of other activities including picnics and guided walks. The tasks focused around the falls provide good photographic chances as they attract many birds. Tourists get a fresh tour of a very diverse experience with guards and expert guides. The local people in the country are also frequent guests to Thomsons falls, especially during special days and weekends.Â
Directions
To get to Thomsons falls from Nyahururu town, walk a distance of 1km or board a taxi to the falls. There is a tarmac road that goes out from there to Rumuruti that is where the fun begins. Going from Nakuru to get to Thomsons falls, it is a joy to see the farms and the changing landscape. Around every corner, there is a view that makes one want to stop and enjoy the colours of the scene. The entry charges to gain access to the falls varies on the nationality of the visitors. For Kenyans, the entrance charge is Kshs. 100/- that they collect at the gate of Thomsons falls. For non-Kenyans, non-East Africans, non-residents, it is Kshs. 200/- per person. And they also charge 50% of the adult rate for each child who is below the age of 12.
2) Nanyuki
The lovely town of Nanyuki with its broad street lies at the foothills of Mount Kenya. It was a buzzing market place with local people dealing with all kinds of trade. Even today, Nanyuki, the last highland before going down into the northern plains, does indeed retains the border spirit.
3) Tsavo
A tourist site for over 100 years, the whole of Tsavo west was once a plain that turned into woodland over time. It endured many alterations in its first 30 years, but after enough rains and new flushes of growth, by 1980, it had changed itself into grassland. When they earmarked Tsavo for wildlife, there was no outcry from any of the people concerned because there was no gain in it for them due to it being a tsetse fly region. Although that was a good start, the numbers of elephant had thinned down from the 1940s when herds of them had easy access to these lands.
Political tidbits
Tsavo park, which is 9 times bigger than Mara played its role in the Kenyan political arena too. After the freedom of Kenya, the Kilaguni lodge was the only site with a phone number outside Nairobi. They called it the red phone, which was the direct line between the State House and any other place. They used to drive Jomo Kenyatta down to Kilaguni every once in a while for a much needed break. There is even a picture of him looking towards the water hole from the Kilaguni lodge. History repeats itself and later on Kilaguni hosted the country’s 3rd leader. Miguna’s 1st book describes a nasty meeting between the parties in the 2007 presidential campaign and a mention of a talk that took place in January 2008.
Birds at Tsavo
From a distance the grotesque thoraxes bobbing their coral pink, obscene gullets look like funeral shrouds. Many marabou storks strut around proudly without any care around the water hole. Their scabby beak and poker face and the bright scarlet bubble on its neck warn people to keep away. These birds have the hunched look of the under taker and stroll around with the air of the money lender.
Get to know the safari land
Mountains of Kenya
Kenya has 2 lovely mountains that are the icons not only of the country but also of Africa. Mount Kenya, which is Kenya’s highest mountain, and Aberdare mountains, which is by now well famous for its salient forests and fertile game. Indeed, mountain climbers and experts rate Mount Kenya as the most terrible ice mountain in the world. The Aberdare has 2 unique safari lodges called the Tree hotels that are set high in the awning above natural salt licks and water holes.
1) Mount Kenya
The highest park in the world, perhaps, is sited in Mount Kenya. This volcanic mountain is a state icon, a wildlife preserve, a Natural world heritage and a climber’s Mecca. Walls, minor peaks, couloirs and ice-cliffs rise up in profusion from Mount Kenya. The edges of the jet stream shaped by nature have fashioned it into an African jewel. But to value Mount Kenya’s beauty and its moods you need to climb through the juniper and bamboo forests, decked with Spanish moss. These climbs alter all the time in quality because of the erratic weather changes. For example, an ice pitch can turn into a risky slush during sunny days. And mountain climbing carried out in the rains has never been failed conquests. For this reason, climbing is best done during the 2 dry seasons of Kenya – July to early October and January to early March. An understanding of the dynamics of the snow and sun on Mount Kenya is a good starting point for any mountain climber.
Glowing mountain snow
Without a doubt, Mount Kenya’s eternal and constant snows provide its real fun. At the height of 3,000 meters, they appear pellucid, and at 4,000 meters, the ice-cliffs sparkle. These diamonds change their beauty and shape with the daily freezing and melting of the snows. But the 19th-century geographers rejected the marvel of snow on the Equator as tough and made fun of the reports by Ludwig Krapf, the German priest, of a snow-capped mountain. And the most doubtful among those learned men only grudgingly believed the eye witness reports of the peak.
Shining mountain sun
The sheer face of the cliff named Diamond couloir which is 700 meter high refracts the light of the morning sun. The sun during the 1st and the 2nd half of the year is in the southern and northern hemisphere respectively, which creates a unique marvel to Mount Kenya. The south receives direct sunlight and provides ideal rock climbs in the 1st 6 months. The north face remains iced-up because it is barred from direct sunlight and offers ice climbs. Then within days in the 2nd the solstice changes and the state reverses.
Tough mountain climb
John Gregory, the Scots geologist, under took the earliest ascent to Mount Kenya’s glacial zone in 1893 while the 1st to climb Bastian was Sir Halford Mackinder. Eric Shipton led the 2nd climb to the summit 30 years later. Today, the peaks challenge, provoke and stir masters who have conquered Himalayan routes. For amateur climbers, you can ascend Lenana peak, but the higher peaks are for hardcore mountain climbers. Even then, it is good to climb with care because it has the world’s highest number of pulmonary edema due to no motor access to great heights.
Take a walk
The thrill begins with a stroll around the base of the dead volcano out of which the mountain’s ice-capped, craggy topmost peaks rise. Mount Kenya’s walks are unique with the tarns that stud the radial valleys. Indeed, its moorlands are as varied and joyous as those of the nearby Mount Elgon and Aberdares. Superb killer birds haunt the cliffs and lower peaks. Here, there is a chance of spotting the melanistic black leopard.
2) Aberdare mountains
The Aberdare mountains was the forest battle ground in which many Kenyan heroes like Dedan Kimathi led the freedom struggle and earned themselves a place in the history of Kenya. The Mau Mau uprising against the British settlers in the 1950s also happened in the Aberdares. The Aberdare is the 3rd tallest mountain of Kenya. Plains and moorlands break these high woods, and through the tree cover, there are many views of Mount Kenya and Rift valley. The woodland is a world of wildlife. The dense forests provides perfect shelter for these countless beasts. Vast herds of them move almost mutely through the under growth. Overhead, colobus monkeys and noisome birds live in the canopy. The forest comes alive at night with a parade of game coming to these clearings. Then you can simply hear the unique rasping growl of leopard among the trees and the cries of hyrax. Besides, there are mountain streams that are full of trouts. And there are a series of water falls along the range. The site can be explored either on foot or by vehicle. There are trails throughout the forests and moorlands. They are Kenya’s best treks. The foothills are ideal for riding on horseback. They are the ideal places for guests to observe game at length. The herds surround and drink from the waterholes and then fade away. Sometimes a rhino or the bongo antelope visit the water hole. The bulls fight over territory. Genet cats descend and slip through the halls.
Hotel sites
Kenya’s old hospitality spots are worth a mention not only for their unique site but also for their lure for many famous people and heads of state. They are Thomsons falls lodge, Treetops lodge, Outspan hotel, Mount Kenya Serena lodge, Kilaguni Serena lodge and Mount Kenya safari club. It is also hard to ignore the Egerton castle built during the British era. Perhaps stirred by the richness of this castle or simply taking a memory stroll down the lane, a post-British tycoon built the lovely Tafaria castle.
1) Thomsons falls lodge
The 1st sign of urban dwelling in the area was a hut built in the 1920s by the Narok Angling club to allow its members to fish the newly Brough in trout in the Equator and Ewaso Narok rivers. Then came the Thomsons falls lodge, which is on the outskirts of Nanyuki town at the Aberdare range on the southern corner of Laikipia. The lodge has rooms with ensuite bathrooms and an open and cozy fireplace built in the British era style to keep warm from the cold climate of the ranges. It is a site that offers not only calmness but also rareness. Acres of gorgeous lawns and shades of olive and cedar trees surround Thomsons falls lodge. It is an ideal place to bask in the glory of this surrealism. Tucked in the country side of Kenya, it is a place of freedom, solace and space in a wild landscape. Thomsons falls lodge is an over night stop for people moving between the Great rift valley and Samburu. This ancient lodge is also a famous base used by athletes for high altitude training. Although the railway line has stopped operations now, the Thomsons falls lodge and the cottages built around the club by the English settlers in 1931 is still going strong.
2) Treetops lodge
Major Sherbrooke Walker built the Treetops hotel on a fig tree in 1932 at the request of Lady Bettie Fielding, his wife. She wanted a tree house like the 1 in the play Peter Pan. It was carefully built near a wallow where wild beasts came for salt lick and drinks. At 1st, it was open only on Wednesdays to welcome guests as a viewing platform. Then, Treetops lodge Kenya remained open to everyone with just 2 beds. But during the Mau Mau uprising, the rebels burnt down Treetops lodge in revenge for the shoot-on-sight order made against them and hence the lodge was closed.Â
Princess Elizabeth
Treetops lodge is famous not only in Kenya but has a place in British saga too. Princess Elizabeth along with her husband, Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, spent a holiday in Kenya in February 1952. On the 5th of February, she climbed the steps of Treetops lodge to watch the wildlife. She stepped down the next morning and learnt that King George VI, her father, had died and she had become the Queen of Great Britain. Five years after the Queen’s visit, fire destroyed the original Treetops. Then, it was rebuilt on a larger scale and since then it has hosted many famous people and VIPs. But the real stars at Treetops are always the wildlife that comes past to drink from the water hole below. In 1961, the ownership of Treetops changed to Sir Malin Sorsbie from Walker, and in 1966 to Block hotels limited. The Treetops lodge was then rebuilt in 1983 to 40 rooms and in 1996 to 50 rooms. In 2012, it was wholly upgraded with a 6-month repair. The lodge trait was preserved while guest comfort, dining experience and game viewing was enhanced. The lodge’s current owners, Aberdare safari hotels, purchased the lodge together with Outspan hotel in Nyeri.
3) Outspan hotel
The base before the visits to Treetops is the Outspan hotel, an ideal get away with great aura, verdant green lawns and vibrant gardens where peacocks roam at will. The hotel is set in Kenya’s coffee and tea growing highlands in the green grounds near the Karuru falls. It is a British style hotel sited in Nyeri between Mount Kenya and Aberdare mountains. Nyeri is the birthplace of famous Kenyans such as the Green belt movement founder and Nobel laureate Professor Wangari Maathai, the marathon runner Catherine Ndereba and ex-president Mwai Kibaki.
Building the hotel
Major Sherbrooke Walker along with his wife Lady Bettie built the Outspan hotel in 1926. At 1st, it was a 4-bedroom hotel with running water and private baths. The Walkers offered to give away a bottle of champagne to whoever came up with the best name for the hotel. It went to a saw-miller, Grace Barry, who named it Outspan. It means the place where the traveler unloads the weary oxen at the journey’s end. Outspan was opened to the public with 10 rooms on New Year’s Day of 1928.
Lord Robert Baden-Powell
Sherbrooke Walker was a friend of the founder of the Boy Scouts movement, Lord Robert Baden-Powell. In the year 1920, Lord Powell became the world’s Chief Scout. Walker made him his private secretary and his 1st scout commissioner. During his 2nd Kenyan visit in 1935, Baden-Powell was so impressed with the lovely views of Mount Kenya’s snow peaks that when the doctor advised him to rest, it was this hotel that Baden-Powell chose. In 1939, it is here where the founder of the Boy Scout movement Lord Robert Baden-Powell retired. He lived and spent his last years in a cottage known as Paxtu in the grounds of the Outspan hotel compound until he died in 1941. The Paxtu, now a tribute and a museum, is devoted to the movement and his life. Baden-Powell was buried in the Anglican churchyard in Nyeri along with another famous name, the Indian game hunter Jim Corbett. Hundreds of guides and scouts from all around the world still visit the museum. The hotel guests have free access to it while walk-in guests pay. Today, the hotel sits on 20 acres of gardens with 45 unique rooms, prime food and service, and is an ideal spot for trade and leisure.
4) Mount Kenya Serena lodge
For those unwilling or unable to ascend to Mount Kenya, it is worth spending a couple of nights at Serena lodge. The vista around the lodge is joyful with their vivid features. It is set in the dense rain forest zone on the slopes of Mount Kenya within the national park in Kenya’s Nyeri District, about a 3-hour drive and 193 kilometres from Nairobi.
Tree hotel beckons
Similar in concept to the tree-hotels of the Aberdares, Serena lodge has a setting above a water hole, over shadowed by Mount Kenya and rimmed by rain forest. The lodge boasts the most dazzling forest water holes with a constant ballet of wildlife that includes many bird and mammal species. The lodge has a viewing-deck and a porch that gazes down on to a salt lick and water hole. Many herds of buffalo often visit this place. The lodge also offers a peak to other wildlife of the montane forests of Kenya: from colobus monkeys to the giant forest hog with chippy hornbills and touracos. Chirping tree frogs and wailing tree hyraxes are often seen. Leopard, rhino, waterbuck and lion are visitors too. A tunnel connects the lodge to a purpose built viewing bunker hideout, giving the chance to get very close to the wildlife with amazing photo chances just meters away from the beasts. As night nears, the trees around come alive with a melee of sounds as night creatures begin their nightly rituals that make the bush so elating and unique. Without a doubt, the sweeping views across the treetops and the cold, clear mountain air beckons with chances for survey and probe.
Luxury rooms
The lodge has cabin-styled, timber-built rooms with a private porch and luxury ensuite bathroom over looking the water hole. The decor of rooms are of local African and wood art with rugs. The décor echoes the local culture, with soft lighting and hand-woven wall hangings. The dining room serves foreign cuisine. Game drives, guided forest walks, and hikes to Mount Kenya are on offer. Guests also have a chance to view birdlife and game in the open forest in roofless vehicles.
5) Mount Kenya safari club
Interestingly, despite the freedom struggle unrest in Kenya, the famous conservationist and Hollywood movie star William Holden along with 2 of his friends, a Swiss and an American spent many weeks in the country. There was an accommodation in Nanyuki that was the pet spot for William Holden and his group. It is on the equator on mountain slopes that towers above the forests with gardens beyond. This place started out as a coffee farm just a few kilometers above Nanyuki town. By some quirk of fate, the owner was forced to sell it in 1960 due to crop failure, and that became the turning point in their lives. After lots of dreams and many drinks, the 3 bought it and named it Mount Kenya safari club.
Private retreat
The inn converted into what became a gorgeous hotel in East Africa. The dazzling view alone is worth the trip to this royal and historical hotel. Due to its unique location, Mount Kenya safari club later became a place for famed visitors such as Hollywood stars, VIPs, royalty and heads of state. It was a hideaway for the crowned heads and the elite and its gold book was a who’s who. Founded by the Sunset boulevard celebrity William Holden and host to guests such as Winston Churchill and Bing Crosby, Mount Kenya safari club is a hotel with lovely views of the mountain. This historic club reflects the British style design, giving you a glimpse of Kenya from a bygone era.
Stunning cottage suites
The 12 William Holden cottage suites, named after the founder, are same and reflects the charm and history of the 1st residence. They have spacious lounges and are stylish with lovely stone fire places, wide private lawns over looking the mountain and 5-piece ensuite bathrooms. The stunning suites have 2 adjoining bedrooms for 2 couples or a family, offering privacy and luxury.
Awe with nature
When Don Hunt came to East Africa to film episodes for his children’s TV show known as Bwana don, he was dazzled by it. While in the country, he and Holden bonded their ties through their awes with nature and the special wildlife. Iris Breidenbend, who then became Iris Hunt and Julian McKeand who was a expert hunter, joined Don and Bill.
Mount Kenya ranch
Around the 65 acres of grounds with the Mount Kenya Safari Club, stood a mixed farm owned by a Major in the British army. When this nearby land came up for sale, Holden and his group purchased it very soon to combine it with the grounds of Mount Kenya safari club. That was the birth of Mount Kenya game ranch with captive breeding programs of African species and an place where Iris had raised rescued orphans, bringing them back from the brink of death. Conservation only became popular many years after Mount Kenya game ranch.
Wildlife awareness
William Holden’s acting career spanned 40 years and included 80 films plus an Oscar. But the role in which Holden took the most pride was the co-founder and conservationist of the Mount Kenya Ranch. Throughout his life, Holden continued his support of the game ranch and referred to it as the greatest of his life. His dedicated efforts to conserve the wildlife so precious to all soon expanded throughout the globe, as he instilled in everyone a reverence for the creatures of nature. In America and Britain, green movements brought wildlife conservation awareness to the forefront through tee shirts bearing a baby seal.
Endangered mountain bongo
Today, Mount Kenya Safari club is a posh hotel and location of the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy. It is home to the largest herd of mountain bongo in the world that is captive-born. The natural range of these endangered species was the Mau Escarpment and Aberdare National Park. Hence plans are afoot to release 20 of these beautiful antelopes into Mount Kenya National Park. The partners made the bongo the logo and symbol of the Mount Kenya Game Ranch because it was one of the rare species.
Dream comes true
In 1973 Holden brought Stefanie Powers into his East African project, and she was swept up by his contagious enthusiasm. After William passed away, Powers and the Hunts established the William Holden Wildlife Foundation. The foundation carried out Holden’s unfinished work and received its IRS status in October 1982 as a Public Charity. The first group camped on the education center site the following year in January.
6) Kilaguni Serena Lodge
The most famous thing about west Tsavo Park is the Kilaguni lodge, now part of the famous Serena chain, which is central to the park. Kilaguni is a Kamba word, a vernacular language in Kenya, which means the place of the young rhino. This lodge was the very first and the only permanent accommodation for a long time in a wildlife reserve or a national park of Kenya. His Royal Highness, the Duke of Gloucester, officially opened this world-class establishment in West Tsavo in 1962 and is now a flying blue programme member.
One with nature
Being the very 1st lodge, Kilaguni lodge is in the shadows of Kilimanjaro. Therefore it is not only hushed for game viewing but also have unobstructed sights of Kilimanjaro. Kilaguni Lodge has been designed to merge into the savannah landscape. The elegantly renovated rooms have been styled to provide luxury accommodation in an African aura drawing colors from the Savannah palette such as blueness of the sky above, golden hue of the rising sun and the lush green of the bush.
Lofty veranda garden
The lodge boasts of private verandas of volcanic stone and rocky outcrops of the valley. Directly in front of the grand porch is a garden that is cool and manicured in contrast to the unkempt, hot plains outside. It is here where the visitor can relax and sip iced drinks in comfort and enjoy the views of eternity.
Layout of facilities
Other facilities at Kilaguni safari lodge include massage and beauty treatments and a pool that would make you fall in love with the lodge. The room layout and the area with the porch and dining room are out of this world. The open-air diner, the rock-built bar and the timbered game-viewing decks exude calm and coolness. The lodge uses old sepia-hued paintings and olive wood carvings. Besides, the place is near the main spots namely Mzima Springs, Shetani and Chaima lava sites, rhino sanctuary and roaring rocks.
Wildlife at Kilaguni
The most noted attraction at Kilaguni safari lodge is the wildlife, thanks to the water hole. The lodge is central to miles of plains, lion-stalked grasslands, and wildlife-teeming bush. The water hole is around the volcanic splendour that attracts vast herds of zebra, monkeys, giraffe, buffalo and other wildlife game that can get quite noisy. West Tsavo’s wild beasts parade themselves here day and night. Semi-tame hyrax, dwarf mongoose and other species scamper among the guests searching for leftovers of food. Sited 280kms from Nairobi, Kilaguni safari lodge is an ideal get away. The lodge over looking the Chyulu hills with the royal allure of Kilimanjaro flirting over the vista, the volcanic lava creating a dark hue and the water hole in the distance beckons all nature lovers. The 1st lodge ever in Kenya, Kilaguni safari lodge indeed has a flavour full of history and makes for a pleasant walk down memory lane as it sends one back to the romance era of Hemingway and Karen Blixen.
7) Egerton castle
Amidst the thicket of canopy trees and shrubs, a few kilometres from Nakuru town, lies the fun and royal Lord Egerton’s mansion. He built it in 1952, and its being is inspired by the love that casts its shadow on its lush lawn as well as the chiseled boulders dotting its stairways. Love is so strong that it can move people’s hearts even to build rich castles. The Egerton Castle of Nakuru in Kenya tells a love story albeit without a fairy tale ending. Born into a royal family of Lords in 1874, Lord Maurice Egerton was the son of Lady Anna Louisa Taylor and Alan de Tatton. His parents brought up Maurice Egerton in a well-off clan along with his 2 siblings, a brother William who was born in 1868 and sister Cecile who was born in 1871. But they died in their childhood leaving Lord Maurice Egerton as the sole heir to the vast riches. For 10 years Maurice Egerton was schooled in Briton and after that joined the British Royal Navy following his father’s footsteps. When his father died in 1920, he became the 4th Baron of Egerton and got the family wealth. Upon his father’s passing, at the age of 45, Maurice also got the title Lord. He had a passion for photography and hunting, 2 activities that kept him on the trail of his travels.
Entry into Kenya
Lord Maurice Egerton came to Africa through Zimbabwe, went up through Congo and Uganda, and then entered Kenya in 1920 when the British settled in the country. During this period the British rulers used to offer to its ex-army people, land as a token. Thus, Egerton obtained 44 km of land in Nakuru-Njoro region, which he ran with the help of workers who were assigned diverse roles. And, while in the country, Lord Delamere convinced and inspired him to do farming. So, he bought some more acres of land from Delamere, parts of Rongai, Molo, Ngata and Lake Nakuru, running to Egerton university.
Tying the Knot
According to the British tradition, it was customary as an offspring of a royal family that Maurice marries a girl of the same status, either in the Queen’s lineage or a princess. Therefore, indeed, he did find himself a young beauty whose ancestry descended from Queen Elizabeth. At 45, Lord Egerton married an Austrian princess as befitting the title and the English aristocratic convention. He even built a four-roomed cottage hoping that it would impress the woman of his life. Maurice invited her to see it, but disappointingly, the lady only spent two hours in the compound, prompting Maurice to think of constructing a bigger house befitting her status.
Castle taking shape
Lord Egerton set himself on planting a mansion that would make him worthy of her companionship. He passionately went about trying to erect a palace worth the regal image. Maurice began a massive building project in Njoro for his princess wife. The idea was to construct it modeled on his family’s house back at Tatton Park Cheshire. Lord Egerton laid the foundation of the castle in 1938 and contracted the English architect Albert Brown, labor team of a few hundred Red Indian and Kenyan laborers as well as a group of Italian builders to realize the fancy design. By then, the Second World War had begun, and Lord Egerton had to go to England. When the war ended in 1945, Lord Egerton came back from Britain to resume the construction, which lasted for nine years.
Imported building materials
Lord Maurice Egerton imported the construction materials from Britain and castle designers from Italy. The rocks used for construction were purchased from abroad, tiles that decorated the interiors from China and the sparkly green marbles for fireplaces from Italy. Imported zinc tiles adorn the roof, polished curved stones line the balcony on two floors and dressed blocks shape the fringes. The interiors, inside walls and the stairways, were specially paneled with British oak. The only local building materials used for the castle were kinoo and stones from Njiru.
High-quality fixtures
The grand piano, made with 411 pipes and a cabinet, takes the height of two floors. The guests’ lobby connects a huge ballroom for high caliber entertainment, meetings, celebrations and rendezvous. Among the 52 rooms are bathrooms, a dark room for photography, guesthouses, a library, a kitchen, a reading room, a laundry room and other partitions creviced for specific occasions. Besides, it also had a master bedroom, a children’s room, numerous other rooms, alleyways, confinements, barricades, artistic lacunas and cloistered venues.
Not impressed
Floor by floor and block by block, the mega-structure rose tenaciously, that is said to have resembled the Neo-classical family mansion back in England. But, the lady whom he was supposed to have wooed was not impressed citing that it was small. She left for Australia in 1954 and married a filmmaker who became Lord in the later years of their marriage. Maurice was heart-broken and devastated but, nevertheless went ahead and furnished the entire castle. Thrice a year, a musician would come from England to play the Lord’s favorite ballads on the organ.
Misogyny for women
After the divorce, Lord Egerton became hostile and did not allow any woman anywhere around the castle. His magnificent castle evoked passionate misogyny for women in its pulchritude. He pinned notes on tree branches and girths warning women to stay away from his hundred-acre plantation that showcased his agricultural acumen. Those women who dared to approach the castle risked their lives, as Lord Egerton was a hunter not only of animals but also of trespassing women.
Promoting Kenyan education
During the 38 years he lived in Africa, Lord Egerton played a crucial role in Kenyan education. He founded the Egerton University, which was formerly used to train European settlers. Lord Maurice Egerton lived until 1958 as a loner in the castle. Eventually, he died a sad death due to chest issues and lies buried in Nakuru town of Kenya.
8) Tafaria Castle and Country Lodge
Once upon a time of great hardship, loneliness, and adventure, in Deighton Downs, at the foothills of Aberdare and Mount Kenya and overlooking the Laikipia plains, lived a young African man. His name is George Waititu who is now the former Managing Director of Steadman. As he grew up enveloped in the wilderness, an immortal dream came unto him to convert an impoverished rural community. That idea became the exclusive Tafaria Castle established in 2012. Hence, it is fair to say that it was George’s motivation that paved the way for the existence of Tafaria Castle and Country Lodge. The exclusive Tafaria castle and country lodge between Nyeri and Nyahururu is a magical resort. This location now hosts people who want to spend a holiday at the castle overlooking the idyllic greenery of the forest. The mauve sky, the greenery in the property, and the mountain yield a picturesque sight.
Dream comes true
When George abandoned his high-paying lucrative job, few understood why he left such a good job. But he quit because he found it difficult to balance his time between the business venture he was involved in and his employer. But once Waititu resigned, he put so much effort on the project that his gamble paid off just a year after he left. The castle took a total of seven years of construction to be in its current form and structure. His undertaking brought about one of the most beautiful structures in Kenya called the Tafaria Castle and Country Lodge.
Three transformational mindsets
Tafaria castle and country lodge in Kenya was created to provoke and stimulate three transformational states of mind. One is that of adventure because of the location being within easy reach of Kenyan wildlife. Second is that of images drawn from the medieval architecture of the lodges. And the third is that of sheer indulgence of luxury with pure leisurely relaxation.
Adventure with wildlife
Tafaria castle is in a remote location and the secluded spot, north of Nairobi, halfway between Nyahururu and Nyeri. It is located 40 miles from Nyeri towards Nyahururu and 24 miles from Nyahururu towards Nyeri. The castle is on an expansive land in the middle of nowhere overlooking the Aberdare Range, Mount Kenya and Laikipia Plains. It is within 30 minutes of the vibrant African wildlife in the Laikipia Plains and Aberdare ranges. The breathtaking forests and mountains of the Aberdare Ranges hosted the Queen of England before she ascended the throne. It is also possible to organize game drives and enjoy game viewing expeditions to Aberdares, the Mount Kenya, Laikipia or even the conservancies while staying at this lodge.
Imagination with architecture
The elegant architecture of the castle is a medieval-era style. To stay there is like a journey back in time to the Elizabethan era at the present moment. It reminds one of the Norse warriors back in the 11th century transporting the guest to her Majesty’s chambers. And in the 21st century, it is a unique venue for a dream wedding due to its English medieval architectural style. The castle has a sizeable Elizabethan amphitheater that is capable of holding about 800 people. There are motorized chairs and beds in the reception area and in some rooms that look like carriages.
Relaxation with atmosphere
The castle is at high altitude, with gentle manicured ground facilities, and a countryside atmosphere. The Tafaria Castle and Country Lodge offer exclusive usage of its manicured grounds. Surrounding the place is numerous trees and beautiful landscaping. Nature lovers can have a field day with their moments at this magical Castle and Country Lodge. The range of rooms in the country lodge is comfortable and luxurious with options of the Lord’s Room, the Old House, the Knights’ Quarters, the Vikings’ Quarters, the Damsels’ Quarters and the lost Knights’ Quarters. The rooms in the castle are ideal for honeymooners and those looking for extravagance.
Exotic residential quarters
The Damsels quarters, the Vikings quarters and the Knights quarters are the 3 residential quarters of the castle. All these 3 quarters are themed differently with interesting ornamentation and fixtures. The furnishings, fittings, decor and the surroundings of the castle live up to the themed quarters. The Damsels quarters are of adequate size, the Vikings quarters are tented and the Knights’ quarters have extra space. The Vikings quarters are luxurious en-suite tents with the door opening to a night under canvas and a spectacular horizon. There is double and single room accommodation in all these quarters.
Exclusive palatial suites
For groups and large families who need more spacious accommodation the Lost Knights’ Quarters or the Old House, which are beautiful ensuite 3-bedroom cottages, are the best. The Lord’s Room serves as the primary suite and the most coveted in Tafaria Castle and Country Lodge. This exclusive room is ideal for honeymoon couples or any visitor who needs an extra dose of luxury like a bathroom with a large bathtub, a mini-bar and television. It is on the second floor of the castle, and its spacious veranda provides a remarkable view of the property and beyond. And all the rooms are booked many months in advance, as there are only 25 of them.
Other castle facilities
The beautiful castle has a restaurant called Bailey that is open till 11 pm not only to the residents but also to non-residents. Dinner is served in the dining room, while breakfast and lunch on the exterior terrace overlooking the grounds. The Tafaria castle also has an indoor bar, an outdoor snack bar, and an outdoor grill bar. The Moat bar is for residents to enjoy refreshments while enjoying the beautiful view of the Aberdare ranges. A shared sitting lounge with a fireplace serves all guests of the Country Lodge. Tafaria is also fully equipped with day and residential conference facilities, including a choice of a marquee in the manicured grounds and an indoor meeting room. It has beautifully landscaped lawns with a swimming pool, and is the best for outdoor parties and events.
Heritage sites of Kenya
Kenya is full of surprises. There’s never a dull moment for a wide-eyed tourist or an adventurer. One such traveler was Joy Adamson who came from Austria in the early 20th century and fell in love with Meru National Park. It is here that she rehabilitated Elsa the lioness and wrote a book about it that eventually became a motion picture to much acclaim. But a more famous historical monument of Kenya is the Kariandusi archaeological site rich in fossil heritage that was excavated by the world-renowned paleontologist, Dr. Louis Leakey.
1) Joy Adamson of Elsa fame
Joy Adamson was born in 1910 to a wealthy Austrian family, but her parents divorced when she was just ten years old. Ironically, the most favorite pastime in Joy’s family land in Austria was hunting. After shooting a deer in the estate as a teenager, she promised she would never do it again. In 1935 she married a Jew, Victor von Klarwill, who decided that to escape the rising Nazi movement, they should move to Kenya. But Klarwill made a stupid move by sending his wife ahead of him to Kenya to keep the house ready for him.
Seven hundred paintings
On the voyage, Joy met Peter Bally, and when her husband arrived, Joy announced that she would like to divorce him. Shortly afterward, in 1938, Joy married Bally, and together they traveled through Kenya, studying its plant life. She began to sketch their findings, and finally completed seven hundred paintings that got published as several books.
Third time lucky
After a few years, Joy fell in love with a handsome game warden, George Adamson. So, soon after the second divorce, there was a third and final marriage in 1943 to Adamson. The rest of their lives the couple spent traveling together through the wilderness of Kenya.
Wildlife preservation activities
Joy Adamson was a wildlife preservationist and naturalist who spent forty years living on the game reserves of Kenya. She became deeply involved in wildlife preservation activities and is known for the films and books depicting her work in Kenya, especially her book Born Free and Spotted Sphinx.
Lioness named Elsa
In 1956, while trying to protect 3 cubs, George Adamson killed a lioness that attacked him. Adamson sent two of the cubs to a zoo but kept the third one, a female that they named Elsa. They rehabilitated her in Meru National Park and released her back into the wild habitat. They knew that they had been successful when Elsa was left in the wild for a week and returned after killing an African antelope and a waterbuck. In 1961, Elsa died, and they buried her in the Meru Game Reserve with a marker on her grave. Joy Adamson’s famous book Born Free tells the story of how Joy and her husband raised Elsa and then had to train it. That is how Elsa the lioness became the heroine of Joy Adamson’s most famous book Born Free.
Cheetah named Pippa
After Elsa’s death, the Adamsons adopted a cheetah named Pippa, who was the house pet of a British army officer. They trained the young cheetah for several years to survive in the wild. Another famous book of Joy titled The Spotted Sphinx tells the true story of this cheetah Pippa. A stone cairn under an acacia tree near one of the small rivers of Meru in an unmarked spot commemorates her.
Unsuccessful wildlife work
Adamson’s work with wildlife was not all successful as is evident in the case of one lion that they returned to the wilderness. They had to kill this lion because it attacked one of the servants and a child.
Founding preservation organizations
In 1962, Adamson went on a global tour to speak about wildlife preservation and founded the Elsa Wild Animal Appeal and the World Wildlife Fund. The money earned was used to set up reserves and to fund preservation organizations. She was also an activist in the movement to boycott animal fur.
End of journey
On the 3rd of January 1980, Joy Adamson died in the Shaba Game Reserve, where she had been observing leopards. They found her body near her camp, and it became apparent to the authorities and George Adamson that it was a murder. It was evident that human forces were responsible because a sword-like weapon caused the injuries and they found the contents of the trunk in her tent scattered all over the place. The most shocking thing was the explanation for her death – that a lion had killed her. Joy Adamson had written in her will that she wanted them to bury her ashes in the graves of Pippa and Elsa in the Meru Game Reserve. Accordingly, they fulfilled her last wishes at a quiet funeral ceremony held with very few close people in attendance. Although authorities convicted someone, the correct story behind Joy’s death remains a mystery.
Memory lingers on
After Joy’s death, George Adamson carried on his work alone in Meru National Park, which lies east of the Nyambeni Hills. Although it attracted many visitors annually in its heyday, the park suffered terribly at the hands of commercial poachers and was the site of some highly publicized attacks. On the 20th of August 1989, someone also murdered George Adamson along with his two co-workers. Today, Meru National Park has close links with the lives of George and Joy Adamson. At the southeast end of the park, there is even a spring of water on the Tana River that is named Adamson’s Falls. Thankfully, Meru Park has resurged now, and the game viewing there is as excellent as before. And the work of George and Joy Adamson lives on, not only through the organizations that Joy founded, the books she wrote, and their movie adaptations, but also the heritage sites such as Narok Maa Museum and Elsamere.
Narok Maa Museum
Set on the banks of the river called Ewaso Nyiro at the Mau Escarpment, Narok is the grain capital of the country. It is worth going to the Narok Maa Museum, whose exhibits include ethnographic portraits by Joy Adamson in the 1950s. The museum is in a modest town, which is the last trace of urbanization on the way to the Mara. Therefore, these days it has become a refueling stop for almost all the safari drivers.
Home of Adamson
Elsamere in Naivasha is the former home of Joy Adamson, operating now as a museum dedicated to her with the original editions of her books – Born Free – and her paintings on display. The real treat at Elsamere is the afternoon tea set amid acacia thorns, colorful flowerbeds and beautiful lawns that attract plentiful monkeys and birds, all while enjoying the grand view of Ol Doinyo Eburu. Once a holiday home for the Adamsons, Elsamere stands as a unique destination in Naivasha.
2) The Kariandusi archaeological site of Kenya
Kenya is best known for the majestic wildlife, expansive beaches and pleasant weather that undoubtedly attract both international and local tourists. People are willing to spend for a getaway in Maasai Mara and to bask in the tropical sun because of the relative serenity in Kenya. Tourists come in droves during the wildebeest migration or merely to see the big five. However, many of these safari travellers to Kenya are not aware of the fact that the country is rich with ancient fossil heritage dating 100 million years ago.
Prehistoric human records
The National museum of Kenya holds the most extensive collection of human prehistory in the world. Proudly, the museum has the most complete and the most extensive record spanning 27 million years. In addition to fossils, a history of technological evolution with 2.3 million years old tools also exists. This study of the development of humankind continues to-date through the efforts of Kenyan scientists at the museums of Kenya.
Earliest human skeleton
A Kenyan by the name of Kamoya Kimeu made the most famous discovery of a Turkana boy dated around 1.6 million years. He was 1.6 meters tall, 9 to 12 years old, and is the only complete skeleton of a human fossil the world has ever found.
Discovery of Kariandusi
Amongst the very early discoveries of Lower Paleolithic sites in Kenya is the Kariandusi archaeological site. It is a world-famous stone age site estimated to be around 1 million years old that attracts researchers from all over the world. Kariandusi is probably the first Acheulian site to be found in situ not just in Kenya but the whole of Eastern Africa. Later on, the authorities gazetted this Acheulian place in 1954 as a national monument of Kenya making it an essential piece of history of the early humankind.
Dr. Louis Leakey
The archaeological site was discovered and unearthed by the renowned paleontologist, Dr. Louis Leakey. He graduated in 1926 with best grades in his class winning many accolades from the academic world. Due to his success, his alma mater, St. John’s College, awarded Leakey a research grant, for his first archaeological expedition. Using these funds, Leakey was able to make three trips to the Kariandusi archaeological site as well as several trips to other research destinations. During the expedition in an exposed riverbed in Kariandusi in 1928, Leakey realized that the Kariandusi prehistoric site was a factory location of the Acheulian period. He came to this conclusion after discovering numerous collections of artifacts in this riverbed. Gaining the organic momentum created by Dr. Leakey, the excavation of the site went on from then until 1947. After Leakey, three others did a fourth expedition in 1974, which was the last major excavation at the Kariandusi pre-historic site. Subsequently, there have been several minor research studies concerning the Kariandusi pre-historic site.
Archaeological site location
The Kariandusi prehistoric site in Kenya lies on the south-eastern side of the Rift Valley, flanked by Mount Eburu on the south and Menengai crater on the north. This interesting prehistoric site is on the way to Nakuru and near a place called Elementeita. There is enough geological proof to show that some lakes, reaching even hundreds of meters higher than Lake Nakuru and Elementaita, occupied Kariandusi.
Excavation site strata
In between the lower and upper levels of the excavation site is an in-depth forge accessed by stairs. A stratum of the rock that once passed through this gorge has been exposed here by natural erosion by the river. From the ground, the primary layers represent an extended dry period as well as a volcanic period. Overlying all these divisions of the site ground is the white diatomite sediment from a lakebed. Diatomite is nothing but microscopic algae skeletons. It is a white hard stuff used for insulation, paints and as a facial cosmetic by the Maasai. The pumice and datable materials found in the sediments has made it possible for dating the site. There are also wells dug nearby the Kariandusi archaeological site for mining diatomite. The opening of mining activities at the diatomite deposit site has continually unveiled archaeological materials.
Prehistoric obsidian tools
Hundreds of Acheulean and Bolas hand axes as well as stone tools and artifacts excavated and unearthed at the site, belonged to the Acheulean age. Since the time of its excavation in the late 20s, the site has been a source of prehistoric tools made from obsidian, which is volcanic rock found in lava. It has several excavation pits exhibiting a scattered assortment of stone tools that were made by early humans. There are also tools stored at the museum that is of trachyte lava. They are in the form of massive cleavers and hand axes. Most of the tools preserved are cutting implements that were once used by prehistoric people for butchering meat.
Kariandusi museum exhibits
There is a museum near the prehistoric site, with some steps going down to the discovery site of the hand axes. Kariandusi site museum lies 2 km to the east of Lake Elementaita and Rift Valley. The museum at the Kariandusi archaeological site contains exhibits such as fossils, stone-age hand axes, stone tools and obsidian or volcanic glass knives. It also has a molar of a species of elephant that once existed in Europe and England before it became extinct. Apart from the prehistoric, the Kariandusi museum also caters to several other nearby sites as well. The cradle of humankind is a phrase that explains the uniqueness of Kenya as a safari destination. There are also many prehistoric sites in the country. However, the credit for the discovery of fossils goes to just one family – the Leakey family. Their contribution to these studies was immense. These generations overcame skeptics to search for fossils in the northern part of Kenya to the plains of Serengeti.
Back to modernity
Since its inauspicious beginnings, Kenya has grown into a graceful, green city of open spaces, wooded hills and broad streets. Once a frontier settlement, it has become one of the most significant and distinct countries in Africa. Nairobi, the most populous city in East Africa, supports an approximate population of four million people. Today, Nairobi is the modern, bustling capital of Kenya that boasts of genuine state of the art amenities matched by a mere handful of cities in Africa. The thriving and boundless energy of the town makes it seem as if Nairobi never sleeps. There are casinos, nightclubs, restaurants, theatres and cinemas, flower-decked parks and forest walks, as well as many sports ground and golf courses. The economy of Nairobi sits solidly on an industrial area in the east that encompasses car assembly parts, paint making, breweries, tire production, manufacture of appliances, food processing, packaging, printing, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and much more. The Kenyan capital is also the most important commercial hub, signified by the presence of the head office of the United Nations for Africa and the United Nations Environment Programme, not to mention Nairobi Stock Exchange, Africa’s fourth largest. Practically all roads in the country and for that matter, most railway tracks as well as regional, domestic and international flights lead to Nairobi. Hence, it is the international gateway to Kenya and the rest of East Africa.
Airports in Nairobi
There are 2 flight terminals in the capital’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, named after Independent Kenya’s founding father. Just outside, north of this airport, are the two busiest regional airports in East Africa. The Kenya Air Force uses the original terminal, sometimes called the Old Embakasi Airport, located on the north side and low-cost airlines use terminal 2, while Wilson Airport is the hub for regional flights. The new terminal, 1A at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, was designed to boost security by separating departing and arriving passengers. The new terminal has improved the experience of customers tremendously at the airport, besides guaranteeing operational efficiency and enhanced service quality to airport users. Commissioning of this facility is a critical milestone in the efforts to modernize and expand the international airport and to improve customer experience, with the goal to make Nairobi the principal hub in the region. The airport can easily handle a total of 7.5 million passengers from Africa, Europe, and Asia.
Unity in diversity
The uniqueness of Kenya lies in its vast contrasts between race, tribe, and origin. In other words, the country’s prosperity goes hand in hand with an incredible sense of harmony. A polyglot mix of faiths, cultures and cuisines add zest to life in Kenya’s sunny streets. In the suburbs and city centre, the minarets of Islam rise alongside the Sikh temples facing the Hindu temple. And they are within sight of an Anglican church and a Catholic cathedral. All these are only a stone throw away from the city synagogue. Its varied selection of international cuisines – Chinese, Italian, French, Japanese, African and Indian- attests the pluralistic face of the nation. Indigenous Africans form the majority of the residents. Kikuyu of the central highlands is especially prominent in numbers and business affairs. Evidently, the capital city of Kenya has risen within a century from a brackish swampland to a thriving place, and the modernity has quickly caught up. However, modern Kenya is still Africa’s safari capital, but intriguingly, this is not an urban country. Wilderness still surrounds it. Outside the city are the National park, plains, cliffs, and forests. They are home to large herds of wildebeest, giraffe, buffalo, zebra and more. Cheetah, rhino, and lions are all found living wild within minutes of the town center. And Nairobi has not forgotten its past. The museum and the home of Karen Blixen is open to visitors every day.
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